A Travellerspoint blog

Day 16 Last Full Day in Tokyo

Shopping at Ueno's Ameyoko Street and Asakusa's Kappabashi Street

sunny 71 °F

On our last full day in Japan Mike would have been content to stay at the hotel and relax but I coax him to join us to shop this morning. We were up bright and early by 7:30. Our goal today is to search for items we have yet to find - a matcha whisk and more Ghibli products for Shirley and a noren (a door curtain) that sister Sue asked me to bring back. We will head back to Ueno and Kappabashi. Norm says stores in Ueno open at 10:00, an hour earlier than Kappabashi, so we take the train to Ueno at 8:45. We are looking first for breakfast but inside the station are bakeries selling similar pastries to the Bolange bakery we have been eating at the last few days. We come out at the Hirokoji exit of the Ueno station. There are two giant stuffed panda bears out front. This is probably to commemorate the giant pandas that are at the Ueno Zoo.large_IMG_6025.JPG
large_IMG_6035.JPG We walk out onto a large beautifully tiled plaza. large_IMG_6030.JPG Across the station is the Marui department store with its logo on the building. large_IMG_6036.JPG The logo OIOI is a mnemonic and word play device that references the company name in kanji characters, 丸井. The first character can be read as maru (and can mean circle) and the second as i (and can be represented with a vertical line). We walk pass and head to the famous Ameyoko Shopping Street. It runs along the train tracks. Some store are right under the JR tracks! large_IMG_6043.JPGThe area has a unique history. Ameyoko started as a black-market following World War II. large_IMG_6094.JPGThere is some debate over the origins of the name Ameyoko, some people believe it is named “Ame” after the Japanese word for the sweets sold by some vendors while others think “Ame” is short for America because it used to be a place to buy cheap American goods. The first shop at the entrance of the Ameyoko street is a tea shop names Chano Kiminoen. IMG_6047.JPG This is a longstanding tea shop with an over ninety year presence. It serves a popular matcha soft serve ice cream for 300 yen that is made with plenty of high quality Uji matcha tea, the same powder used for tea ceremonies. A staff member sporting matcha colored hair helped the Gees shop for a matcha whisk. IMG_6049.JPG Apparently there is an art and science to making great matcha tea aside from buying good quality powder. How the powder is incorporated into the water affects the flavor, texture and appearance. Do you want it frothy or smooth? Which is better, a bamboo whisk or a metal one? How many tines? large_IMG_6046crop.JPGThe Gees decide to continue their search and by 10:00 we ran across a food stall selling pigs feet. large_IMG_6044.JPG large_IMG_6052.JPGThree fellows were seated munching on fried bread sticks. We decided to try that. Norm tried asking in Cantonese if they had jook but there was no response. large_IMG_6051.JPGWe are seated at a narrow table and tight bench seat next to the three guys.large_9eda2fd0-5518-11ef-ba4f-b73573219570.JPG Before our food arrived the guys left, leaving some breadsticks unfinished. Was it not to their satisfaction? Our meal consisted of fried breadsticks, meat baos, one pig's feet, and fried sesame balls. IMG_6060.JPGIMG_6065.JPGIMG_6069.JPGlarge_IMG_6061.JPG They cut up the pigs feet for you. The sesame balls are too hot to eat right away. They were crunchy and had a black sesame seed bean filling, exactly the kind of filling I like. The meat baos were freshly steamed. Last to arrive were the five orders of fried breadsticks. They were 250 yen for one or five for 1000 yen. When they brought out the bag we thought it was someone else’s order. “That’s too big for us” Shirley said. It was a huge long bag.large_IMG_6070crop.JPG There were ten fat long sticks. They didn’t resemble the double sticks pictured on their photos as they had separated into single sticks during frying. IMG_6052crop.JPG My family know these fried breads by the Cantonese name ‘yauhjagwaii’ which literally translates to oil-fried-devil (or ghost). These were monstrously large, so long and wide that they didn’t stay together as a double pair. large_IMG_6072.JPGThey were delicious; crunchy, moist, and hot. Unfortunately it was too much for us to consume. Now we understood why those three guys left their bread. Shirley had a plastic bag so she put the leftover paper bagged breadsticks in it. It’s easy to get lost in the shopping area with crisscrossing streets, interior corridors of covered shops and long corridors of outside shops. The more popular food stalls had long lines. large_IMG_6091.JPGlarge_IMG_6093.JPG Shirley found her Matcha whisk at a tea shop and we found one of the Royce candies that daughter Kim had asked us find for her. IMG_6086crop.JPG I made a note of the store's name (U U).large_IMG_6088.JPGIMG_6089.JPGlarge_IMG_6087.JPG I discovered to my delight that the store sold one of my favorite snacks, Pistachio Crunch. Unfortunately I only bought one bag to bring home. This snack is only sold oversea and I first tried it when a friend or patient gave me a bag on their return from a trip to Asia. I love pistachios and these treats have a tasty light and thin rice cracker exterior. The shell has been removed, the nut is roasted with the crispy cracker coating. Individually wrapped four to a packette they are addictive and I could easily have eaten the whole bag in one eating. I allowed myself to have a couple of packette per day which meant that the bag lasted one week. I should have brought a whole case! IMG_6090.JPG. PistachioCrunch.jpg Before leaving the Ameyoko Street we went back to the tea store and try their famous matcha soft serve cones. Very yummy. large_IMG_6101.JPG Next up is Donguri Republic, a Ghibli store in Tokyo Skytree Town (Solamachi). large_IMG_6116.JPGlarge_IMG_6110.JPGlarge_IMG_6112.JPGlarge_IMG_6111.JPGlarge_IMG_6115.JPG Shirley shops while I try the leftover bread. It's been an hour since our meal and the brown paper bag is a sodden oily mess as the cooled breadsticks released their oil. I tested a small piece of bread that I had not finished to see if was edible. Gone was the crunchy exterior and the airy interior. Norm took the greasy bag to the trash can across from the Ghibli store where Shirley had stepped out from and toss the bread inside☹️. Shirley had found a nice bowl. IMG_6124.JPG Now we head back to one of my favorite place, the Kappabashi kitchen district. The Asakusa Shrine is close to the kitchen area and once again it is bustling with visitors at the shrine and the food and souvenir vendors nearby. large_73387950-60b6-11ef-8ceb-bdfd80f298c4.JPGlarge_732c4450-60b6-11ef-8a2a-591d7525cb11.JPG Coming into the southern end of Kappabashi town the chef head looms large. large_IMG_6149.JPG Our foursome go separate ways along the 1 kilometer kitchen street in search of our items. Mike decided to stay at the beginning of the street. I found two stores selling noren. At the second shop I attempted to pay by credit card but they didn’t accept cards and I wasn’t carrying any Japanese yen on me. I had left Mike standing at the other end of the district so I called Norm’s cellphone to see if Mike was with him so he could pay. For some reason Mike’s new phone wasn’t allowing him to make or receive calls while he’s been in Japan. I told him where I was and stood outside the store looking for him. When he didn't show up after several minutes I left the shop and went in search of Mike. I have a form of direction/topographical dyslexia and had given Mike bad directions about where I was but since the kitchen street isn't that long we eventually saw each other. The store only accepted cash and fortunately Mike had the money. We returned early to Shinjuku to pick up our eyeglasses. IMG_6150crop.JPGIMG_6154.JPGIMG_6155.JPGThe Gees wanted to go back to Shibuya for the popular sushi restaurant and we decided to eat at a curry place near our hotel. It was only 4:00 so I stopped on a GU store to see if any new products came in. I bought one long sleeve shirt. Gourmet Curry Bon Gout is a curry cafe that we walk past daily on our way to the Shinjuku Station. If you google the address it says it's on the 2nd floor of “NEWoMan” near the south exit of Shinjuku, but while it may be the 2nd floor of NEWoMan, it's actually street level and you don't need to go inside the shopping complex to get to it. large_IMG_6165.JPG
This was our first time dining there. They have the most tender beef curry made using a recipe that has been around for forty years. Don't let the black color of the sauce mislead you. It's really a dark green curry with a rich but mild flavor. If you want to add spice there are condiments on the table to kick up the heat. I enjoyed the melt in your mouth beef curry while Mike had the pork cutlet. large_IMG_6157.JPGlarge_IMG_6158.JPG The meal comes with a refreshing drink and a choice of sides. We had one salad and one butter potato. large_IMG_6159.JPGIMG_6156.JPGAs we were finishing up Mike noticed a few diners enjoying ice cream cones. One person sat at a table and only ordered a cone. Mike ordered one and when he checked the menu after he bought it he noticed that you pay 300 yen if you order with a meal and 450 without a meal. IMG_6164.JPG I tasted a spoonful of the ice cream and found it to be rich and creamy. large_IMG_6162.JPG Back at our hotel room we packed our luggage and are ready to leave tomorrow morning.

Posted by Helen K. 21:24 Archived in Japan Comments (1)

Day 15 Shibuya Sky

It's Raining!

rain 63 °F

Up at 7:15. We enjoy breakfast at 8:30 at a bakery in Shibuya.IMG_5892.JPGIMG_5893.JPG The only available times we could go to the Shibuya sky observation tower was at 11:00. The famous Shibuya Scramble is a sea of pedestrians holding umbrellas as it's raining this morning. large_IMG_5894.JPGlarge_IMG_5896.JPG Shibuya Sky is located at the roof of the Shibuya Scramble Square, named because of proximity to the pedestrian crossing that is the busiest crossing in the world. You can go directly from Shibuya Station to Shibuya Scramble Square via an underground floor. Because of the rain the rooftop is NOT open. This is a disappointment of major proportion as the primary draw for this attraction is the rooftop area which is open to the sky. It's a three story 360 degree open air observation deck. The photos I have seen online of this area have been spectacular. This means that if we ever come back to Shibuya, we need to come on a clear day and ideally during sunset. Despite the rain and lack of access to the roof tickets are sold out for the day. large_IMG_5898.JPG IMG_5900crop.JPG The indoor observation area called the Sky Gallery is on the 46th floor. large_IMG_5901crop.JPG It has three digital art installation; Time River.Time River

Time River

Parallel Window IMG_E5053.JPGParallel Window

Parallel Window

and Datascape, Datascape

Datascape

none of which were very interesting. Clouds obscured views of mountains, which meant that Mount Fuji was not visible.large_674693e0-3e27-11ef-93cb-315ba41d0062.JPG large_4e017b30-447f-11ef-8d20-1d2cf2afae31.JPG62c57890-3e27-11ef-93cb-315ba41d0062.JPG The windows in the Shibuya Sky are floor to ceiling panoramic so you can look at the view below standing right up to the window. At one corner a professional photographer takes photos for a fee. At another two corners you can take your own photo. We ask a family visiting from Indonesia to take our photo. large_631fa680-3e27-11ef-93cb-315ba41d0062.JPG We take in a bird's eyeview of a not too busy Shibuya Scramble. large_4e054bc0-447f-11ef-99e3-a39019b8d262.JPG What would Shibuya be without its world-famous Hachiko?1db675c0-4489-11ef-9847-d317c12aa5a1.JPG Norm and Shirley buy a Hachiko souvenir at the gift shop. 628a4450-3e27-11ef-93cb-315ba41d0062.JPGIMG_5078.JPG This morning Norm found the website for Ponte Seto-Umi. He pulled up the English details and found the message about their hours of operation during Golden Week. large_IMG_5028.PNG As we waited for the elevator to exit from the observation tower Norm called the store. He uses Oomie, a lower cost phone service. He bought his device from online Costco and bought an International phone package for 1400 minutes. By using Oomie, calls are 3 cents a minute. When his call was answered he asked if they were open and was told yes. We take the Yamanote line to go there. As soon as we get out of the station the store is right across the street! There are four large bottles of Yamamoto soy sauce. large_IMG_5924.JPG The Gees and we buy two each, emptying the shelf. large_IMG_5925.JPGlarge_IMG_5926.JPG large_IMG_5929.JPGlarge_IMG_5928.JPGOn our way out after paying, a clerk had restocked it with their last two bottles from the cupboard below. It’s 12:30 and it will take an hour train ride to go to Yokohama. Back at the station we would have bought a ramen and curry set for 700 yen but it was a very small stand up place that only fit five diners; we didn't want to eat standing up. Across from it was a diner with seats. A bowl of curry was 300 yen so Mike and I ordered a bowl each. IMG_5931.JPG When Norman ordered the server said “Sold out”. They got an egg sandwich from a convenience store. We hopped on a train to Yokohama and walked a short distance to Chinatown.large_IMG_5934.JPG IMG_5952.JPGIMG_5950.JPGIMG_5951.JPGWe chose one of the first Chinese restaurant we happened upon. Mike was full from the curry so when the waitress took our set orders he motioned that he wasn’t ordering but she seemed to indicate that we all had to order an item so he looked at the menu quickly and chose chowmein. Norman ordered a Tsukeman” set which he says is pronounced “skinmen”. Shirley had a yakisoba set and I had cashew chicken set. Our sets came with rice, soup, and almond jello dessert. Norm’s came with fried rice and dessert. Mike’s chowmein was spicy. Because he had eaten the curry earlier he was too full to finish his meal. large_IMG_5959.JPGIMG_5957.JPGOutside it was raining steadily as we walked to the station to go to Hard Rock in Queens Plaza. At least the store was inside so we stayed dry. large_635ef490-505e-11ef-94da-a918ad06c3ac.JPG Mike and Norman buy Yokohama city shirts. large_IMG_5964.JPG The last excursion is to Costco. Norman has a taxi app which he attempted to use but in the end we ended up waving our hands to hail one. The ride takes us through the industrial parts of Yokohama so the sights are scenic. The ride took thirty minutes and cost 7700 yen ($50.00). The grey haired driver had not driven to Costco before and he got confused about how to get us close to the entrance. IMG_7830.JPG A traffic guard was not helpful in directing him the right way and waved him to turn down a narrow back street leading us away. At this point the driver stopped the meter. With a bit of direction from us he dropped us off in the underground parking lot. Some of us thought this Costco was two stories because it was tall. The first floor is for parking. You enter the store by getting on a moving ramp. large_IMG_5967.JPG large_IMG_5970.JPGShopping at Costco is fun, particularly in a different country. There some are products that are only sold regionally. large_IMG_5981crop.JPGlarge_IMG_6002.JPGlarge_IMG_5999.JPGlarge_IMG_6006.JPG large_IMG_5976crop.JPGlarge_IMG_5978.JPGWe checked small suitcases and because we bought more soy sauce we decided to buy a small suitcase for $64.00. The food samples are generous portions. large_IMG_5982.JPG large_IMG_5983.JPGWe tried a delicious strawberry shortcake that was light and moist. large_IMG_5988.JPG The Gees brought some sponge cakes for snacks, a tray of sushi and a IPad and cellphone stand. large_IMG_5993.JPGlarge_IMG_6013.JPG The guys wanted to eat a hot dog which they shared with us gals. large_IMG_6008.JPGlarge_IMG_6012.JPG We also tried a Hokkaido melon smoothie. I didn’t care for the smoothie as it was too sweet and I didn’t like the melon flavor. IMG_6011.JPGNorman went to guest services at Costco to enquire about a taxi to the closest train station. We exited, opened the luggage and packed the shoyu and other purchases inside.large_IMG_6017crop.JPG When we were ready to leave, Norman asked guest service to call a taxi for us. It arrived immediately. The ride to the train station cost $16. It was cold and raining heavily. Having snacked at Costco we weren’t in the mood to dine out. We stopped at the McDonald’s next to our hotel and ordered takeout.

Posted by Helen K. 17:47 Archived in Japan Comments (0)

Day 14 Tokyo's teamLab Borderless in the Mori JP Tower

Visiting Two Towers in Azubudai Hills - Mori JP Tower and Tokyo Tower

semi-overcast 72 °F

large_IMG_5687.JPGWe are up at 7:20 and head once again to Bolange for croissants at 8:15. We are able to find seats across from each other. We sit at the high wood counter. Under the counter is a shelf to stow your belongings as well as hooks for hanging bags.

IMG_5657.JPG

IMG_5659.JPG We are in a bit of a rush this morning as we want to be on a train by 9. We have tickets for teamLab at 11:00. Norm guided us to the closest entrance to the train that is on the same side as Bolange. We find it’s boarded up due to construction so we go across the street to a kitty corner downstairs entrance. Norman has been an expert navigator using a combination of Navitime and goggle map. As we walk and observe the scenery around us Norm usually has his eyes cast down in his cellphone, not an easy task when walking. large_IMG_5661.JPG We are heading to Azabudai Hills, a newly built area with three skyscrapers. One of the three skyscrapers, the 64 story all glass, Mori JP Tower is the tallest building in Japan. If you go to the 33rd floor of the Mori JP Tower, you can see Tokyo Tower right in front of you and the city below (You have to dine in the restaurant on that floor to be able to go to that floor). The skyscrapers were built to the tune of 4.4 billion dollars. Over thirty years in the planning, with the redevelopment commencing in 2019 and finished in 2023 it boasts a massive amount of green space and even has a miniature Central Park in its midst. As part of it's green building standards; all electricity is supplied by renewable energy, heat is reclaimed from its sewage system, rainwater is stored and treated for irrigating the greenery, and wastewater from residences are collected and used in bathrooms on office floors.large_2dfe4600-340e-11ef-bf84-c19a097f15f9.JPG large_IMG_5672.JPGlarge_IMG_5666.JPG French and Italian retailers offer luxury goods. large_IMG_5667.JPGlarge_IMG_5675.JPG The tower's overall form is evocative of the lotus flower in it's symmetry and curve. large_IMG_5683.JPG Before we traveled to Japan we booked tickets for teamLab Borderless online. Tickets are sold out otherwise. TeamLab Borderless reopened inside it's new location in the basement of the Mori JP tower in February 2024. Since the building is a sprawling multilevel complex and we go check with information to get directions on how to get there. large_IMG_5676.JPGlarge_IMG_5680.JPGlarge_IMG_5679.JPGAsking for Directions

Asking for Directions


Mike and I have been to the other teamLab Planet in Tokyo with the Louies and Ma's in 2023. This will be our second teamLab. large_ebddeef0-359e-11ef-ab07-130d89b6df34.JPGlarge_ebcab510-359e-11ef-baaf-ffc8bc75a5f0.JPG This is the explanation for it's name: teamLab = a group of artists plus hundreds of programmers, animators and architects.
Borderless = a digital art museum without a map or borders created by teamLab. The entry process is very efficient and quick because of the pre-ticketing system. We drop off some of our belongings in the lockers IMG_5688.JPG and go inside a waiting room where an attendant explains the rules and etiquette of visiting the museum. We descend a dark staircase. IMG_5694.JPG Entering the first area, we are immediately overcome by sensory overload. It is wall to floor color and lights. There are five or six areas and fifty artworks. Since there are no maps we try our best to stay together as a group. Fortunately our group of four is small enough that we don't lose each other. The first area is "Forest of Flowers and People". The flowers and plants are real time computer generated renderings based on our movements. All the flowers are moving, opening and closing. The scene is everchanging. Forest of Flowers and People

Forest of Flowers and People

Flowers and People

Flowers and People

We walk into the corridor and see a band of samurai doing a Bon Odori dance. large_IMG_5712.JPGThey dance around corners. You can step in line with them. large_IMG_5715.JPG The bubble room is a myriad of moving and stationary lights that changes color. large_IMG_4943.jpglarge_IMG_4945.jpglarge_IMG_4953.jpg In Sketch Ocean we colored sea creatures, gave our artwork to be scanned and watched as our sea creature emerged in a vast digital ocean and swam around. large_bcde7d60-374a-11ef-a791-6d48545aab2a.JPG We could make our sea creature turn or swim away from us by "touching" them. It was so immersing to watch my seahorse swimming and reacting to my approaching touch that I didn't take photos of the room size aquarium. IMG_4958.jpg In the Memory of Topography room we walked through a meadow of lotus plantslarge_IMG_5724.JPG large_IMG_5741.JPG or rice paddies. large_8a068520-374c-11ef-b9ce-95198cf2bc44.JPG My favorite area was the Infinite Crystal World. There is a similar Crystal World at teamLab Planet, but this one at Borderless allowed visitor to control the color and special effects of the hanging string of crystal. large_20240422_134131.jpglarge_20240422_134106.jpglarge_20240422_134208.jpg We followed the Louies advice to go to the EN Tea House and have tea which was an artistic experience. You have to pay for the tea, but the experience of watching a flower emerges from your tea is worth the cost. large_IMG_5753.JPGlarge_IMG_5754.JPG large_88f111f0-3756-11ef-aea8-a5a173263294.JPGIMG_5760.JPG IMG_4967.jpgIMG_4970.jpgIn total we spent two hours at teamLab Borderless. There were definitely some rooms that I would have stayed longer in, or returned to but we needed to make our way to Tokyo tower. If I should ever go back I will keep these following tips in mind that I gleaned from another blogger to make the visit even more interactive. At least half of the artwork reacts to touch. We knew this from sea creatures that we had decorated, but in our rush to make sure we visited all the rooms we didn't interact with other artwork as much. Here are some of the tips:

• In the waterfall room, if you stand with your back up against the wall, the “falling water” will “splash” off your head, or if you hold your finger to the wall, the “water” will flow around it. If you look down, the “water” will eddy around your feet like you’re a rock in the stream. large_IMG_7649.jpg

If you touch one of the swarms of butterflies as they move through the museum, some of them will fall to the ground. But if you’re in the Butterfly Room and touch one of the shiny walls, a new flock will burst from your fingertips

• The falling Japanese characters in the Waterfall Room turn into the thing they represent if you touch them. (The character for “firefly” for example, turns into a swarm of fireflies.)

• The birds zooming over the floors and walls will turn into disintegrating chrysanthemums if you step on them or block them.

• The flowers blooming atop your tea at the En Tea Room will slo-mo explode into a widening flurry of petals every time you pick up the bowl and drink.

• If you touch one of the marching soldiers, frogs or oxen, they make noises.

All of the artworks that roam throughout the museum will do something if you touch them

For the En Tea Room:
If you want nice pictures:

• Sip carefully and don’t disturb the layer of bubbles on top. The projection doesn’t reflect very well from the tea surface once they disappear.

• The flower projection will find your tea bowl wherever you set it in front of you, but it takes a moment.

Note: the projection focus is set for the tabletop, not the tea surface, so the exploding petals will look a lot sharper than the flowers in your tea.
And lastly, if you want to be photographed as part of the art in teamLab, wear light colored clothing. large_IMG_7608.JPG If you want to be a silhouette with a face, wear dark clothing. large_894832a0-3756-11ef-9b49-95842716f4e2.JPG Also don't wear a skirt as some of the rooms have mirrored or reflective floors.

We check out the Azabudai Hills Market inside the JP Mori tower. The Gees get some sushi and I get a chicken skewer for a snack. IMG_4975.jpgIMG_5769.JPGlarge_IMG_5767.JPG We walk a short distance to Tokyo tower. large_IMG_5777.JPG IMG_4979.jpglarge_IMG_5454.JPEGThe extra cost tickets for the Top Deck observatory are for timed entry. large_IMG_5787.JPGlarge_IMG_5788.JPGIMG_5810.JPG You can go up to the 150 meter Main Deck at any time and visit the two floors which we did while waiting to go to the Top Deck. The Main Deck is a carpeted area with several glass panels in the floor. large_IMG_5841.JPGlarge_c3510340-375c-11ef-8e3b-6dadeb68f21d.JPGIMG_5839.JPG large_IMG_5844.JPGFor the Top Deck tour, our group got two phones with an EarPod so we can listen to a multilingual voice guide system. When you are in a “library” before getting into the elevator to the very top, two portraits of the two men who came up with the idea of the tower start to “talk” about their concept for the tower. (like the talking portraits in Harry Potter”. The architect took his inspiration from the Eiffel Tower, but designed it to be 13 meters taller, making it the tallest freestanding tower in the world, a designation that lasted for over sixty years until the Tokyo Skytree was built in 2012. large_IMG_5780.JPGYou can read the caption in the phone as well as listen on the EarPod. Before getting on the last elevator to the top, a photographer takes a photo of your group. You get to keep a small black and white copy at the end. large_IMG_5822crop.JPG The photo has a title caption VIP for Very Impressive Panorama. At the top deck the phone guide system tells you landmarks below. Zojoji Temple and Shiba Park

Zojoji Temple and Shiba Park

It is decorated with prism mirrors. large_IMG_5831.JPG Floor to ceiling 20 meter windows allows 360 views of the cityscape. We get a bird's eye view. large_IMG_5814.JPG We can see the Mori JP Tower. large_d3828800-3a4b-11ef-b573-af0f5e805ddd.JPGWhen you visit at night, the tower is lit with LED lights. It is a romantic spot for couples and it's even called a "Love Power Spot".large_IMG_5789.JPGWhen you finish visiting the top we go back to the middle floors. The Gees get some Macha cones. In the building at the base of the tower, known as Foot Town, we pass by a selection of shops and restaurants and stop at Pizza La Express for a mid afternoon snack. large_IMG_5849.JPG The four of us ordered a two pizza set. The pizza was freshly baked. Our teriyaki pizza was very tasty. large_IMG_5851.JPG It was small but just perfect for us since we only wanted a snack. The oldest Hard Rock Cafe in Japan (opened 1983) is located nearby in Roppongi Hills. large_50c23890-3a5d-11ef-b391-21c129dfb3f7.JPG509fbc70-3a5d-11ef-b369-c1098ffc0127.JPG50b25a10-3a5d-11ef-b0f0-0977b0332e6b.JPG. From Roppongi Hills we take the metro to Korea town where Shirley and I purchase more of the roll on sunscreen from the same saleswoman from my first visit. c1fbac70-375c-11ef-98a4-514211e75593.JPG The saleswoman reminded me of my long time optical assistant, Kitty, a take charge person who knows what's best for you and isn't afraid to tell you. Even though we had paid, the saleswoman gestured for me to scoot over to the facial cream area where she proceeded to apply a cream around one of my eyes with enough pressure to convey that she meant business and even if the cream didn't do its magic, somehow the pressure from her fingers would help take years off half of my face! I don't even know if the cream was really meant for the eye area because it made my eye water (or was that from the pressure?). She asked my audience of three if they noticed the difference between the side she hadn't worked on and the side she had just finished applying the cream to and she held up a mirror for me to check also. There did seem to be a subtle smoothing out of wrinkles. With that acknowledgement, she then proceeded to rub more of the cream on the rest of my face using a deep massaging pressure. If pressure alone could have erased wrinkles, I would have walked out of the store looking twenty years younger. I think we made the saleswoman happy with my additional purchase because she threw in some free samples into our bags before we left. large_IMG_5865.JPGlarge_IMG_5864.JPG For dinner Mike and I suggested Ichi Ban Kan down the street, IMG_5883.JPG a cheap Chinese restaurant that Mike and I ate at on our first visit to Korea town in 2017. large_IMG_5867.JPGIMG_5868.JPGIMG_5870.JPGIMG_5880.JPGIMG_5872.JPGIMG_5875crop.JPGlarge_IMG_5876.JPGlarge_IMG_5879.JPG Dinner for the four of us came to $20.00 US. large_IMG_5885.JPGWe walked back to our hotel, leaving the Gees to shop at GU.large_IMG_5890.JPG

Posted by Helen K. 21:18 Archived in Japan Comments (0)

Day 13 Shibuya

April 29, the Beginning of Golden Week

semi-overcast 75 °F

large_IMG_5578.JPGToday It is warm a 75 degree and overcast with some humidity. We are up at 7:10 and out at 8:15. For breakfast we go back to Bolange and buy a light and flaky croissant and a baguette with bacon and asparagus. IMG_5568.JPG IMG_5571.JPG Norman books Shibuya Sky tickets online for May 1st. We were hoping for tickets for sunset view or evening views but those sell out immediately. The only slots available were for the late morning. We book the 11:00 time slot. This morning we hop on a train and go 3 stops to Shibuya. The famous crossing street is not too crowded at 10 am. large_IMG_5572.JPGlarge_IMG_5573.JPGThe Gees and I go on inside to check out the newly remodeled Starbucks. It had just reopened 5 days ago on April 25th. IMG_5576.JPGIMG_5575.JPG It is two floors and when you buy from the cafe on the second floor, you can sit and enjoy watching the mass of humanity crossing the street in front of the Shibuya station. The revamped venue is decorated with the green color of the logo. A curving long green ribbon of eating counter snakes through the second floor. Five minutes from Starbucks is a Mega Don Quijote.large_IMG_5580.JPG Shirley's daughter wants some eyedrops for allergies and contact lens wear. I am familiar with the Rohto brand as Asian patients who travel overseas always show me their Rohto eyedrops when I ask what they are putting in their eyes. Rohto is the Japanese version of Visine here in the states. Rohto has been making eye products for 100 years. Originally drops were administered using two products - an eye dropper and eye drop bottle. The company was the first to invent the single container eye drop bottle.

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We go up to the cosmetic floor and find the eye products. There are so many formulas to chose from and it's hard to chose because all of the descriptions are in Japanese. Shirley and I use google translate to figure out which one to buy. There's drops for allergies, for red eyes, for dry eyes, for computer users, and for contact lens wearers. Heather wants the one with the pretty pink package called Lycee Glow. It's target audience are young women. Shirley says online reviewers claim the drops feel minty. large_IMG_5637.JPG I have never tried the Rohto product so I decide to buy the one for dry eye called Rohto Z as well as the Lycee Glow. I am very curious about the minty claim. The Gees continue to shop for other products and eventually they go up to the 8th floor to go to the duty free registers. My purchase is too small to qualify so Mike pays for the eyedrops at a lower floor.

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We head back to the Shibuya station, walking past the statue of Hachi, a dog who always met his master in front of the Shibuya station. He is memorialized because even after his master died, he devotedly waited for him at the station every day. Two movies have been made about Hachi. One of them is an Americanized version with Richard Gere as the master. It is a very touching movie that I can only bear to watch once because it is the ultimate tear jerker. I tell our group about the conversation I overheard the prior morning in which a patron at Bolange had waited one hour to dine at Ramen Nagi. I suggest that we see if there is a Ramen Nagi for us to go to for lunch. Norman searches on his phone and find one nearby. It's only a fifteen walk but it was quite a maze of overpasses, construction zones, hills and alleys. We pass by what seems to be an outdoor movie screen with families sitting on the lawn watching a show. large_IMG_5588.JPG Then we walked through a pretty glass enclosure. large_IMG_5594.JPGlarge_IMG_5590.JPG Norm is quite the expert navigator and soon we come upon Ramen Nagi in a small and quiet complex. There was no line and nobody sitting inside since it's only 11. You pay at a machine located outside the restaurant. IMG_5599.JPGIMG_5600.JPG The Gees wanted gyoza but they were out. After ordering we sat inside. The server notes your preferences. I made sure to request no green onions. I am glad I did because there was a sea of green onion on everyone else’s ramen. large_IMG_5602.JPG Nagi gives you lots of cha siu, more than I could finish. The cha siu was very tasty. I ordered medium richness for the broth. It was a bit too rich so next time I will ask for a lower level. large_IMG_5612.JPG I requested no spice while the rest of the group ordered mild spice. IMG_5604.JPGShirley noted beads of sweat on Norm’s forehead.large_IMG_5610.JPG Back at the Shibuya station the Gee went to the 6th floor of shops to buy the city candles at Diptyque. You wait to be allowed to go inside to browse. I wait outside while the Gees makes a purchase. This location is not crowded at all. It is a surprisingly small boutique.. large_IMG_7604.JPGlarge_IMG_7603.JPG We head to Ponte Seto Umi to buy the special soy sauce again. I am envisioning getting four more bottles. But it’s closed! We wonder if they are closed for Golden Week. (to explain Golden Week, imagine if Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Indigenous Day happened to take place within a one week span - a lot of people would just take the whole week off. That's what Golden Week is about, four Japanese holidays occur between April 29 to May 5th. It just made sense for workers and their companies to take the other days in between as a holiday as well.
The term "Golden" may have been in reference to the leisure industry noticing a spike in consumer usage, leading a film director to dub the week as a "Golden" time for them. large_IMG_5619.JPG Norm read on Reddit that a store in Ginza called Matsuya Ginza, may sell Yamaroku Shoyu. We walk back to station and hop onto a train. On our way to the store we pass by the famous Kabukiza Theater where a classical form of Japanese theater, kabuki theater is shown. large_IMG_5621.JPGlarge_IMG_5622.JPG The Matsuya Ginza grocery store on floor B2 only has the soy sauce in the 100 ml gift size. The gift size cost 540 yen. I buy five bottles. The Gees buy three. Unlike the 500 ml bottle, the label on the smaller bottle does not have the double gold cranes. We ask the sales lady more than once to confirm that it's the same product as the large bottle. IMG_5625.JPGIMG_5627.JPGlarge_IMG_5626.JPG There are tempting treats on this food floor. large_IMG_5631.JPG Outside the shopping complex we walk along Chuo Dori Street. It is closed to car traffic and is a large pedestrian zone where you can sit in the middle of the street and people watch. large_IMG_5636.JPGlarge_IMG_5634.JPGlarge_IMG_5632.JPGlarge_IMG_5633.JPG We go back to the hotel to rest, do laundry and I, to blog. For dinner we head back to Shibuya for sushi and shopping. Located on the fourth floor of the Mark City East shopping plaza, Sushi no Midori has a queue of people sitting down and waiting. Mike and I left the Gees to go in search of another dining option as we are not sushi aficionados. Sushi no Midori has the conveyor belt that snakes through the restaurant. You grab your item off the belt as it passes slowly in front of you. The conveyor belt dining concept was developed by a restaurateur in Osaka almost seventy years ago. This extremely popular chain sells good quality sushi for moderate prices. Unfortunately the restaurant's popularity make for long queues. You need to pull a ticket before queuing and the Gees soon found out there were no tickets to be had. Before Mike and I had made a decision on where to eat, the Gees came to join us in our search for dinner. We chose Ginza Lion, a beer and wine grill. The portions are fairly large, but we still had room to order a baguette. IMG_5646.JPGIMG_5648.JPGlarge_IMG_5645.JPGlarge_IMG_5649crop.JPG large_IMG_5652.JPG After dinner we go back to Shinjuku and shop at Daiso and Don Quijote. We find a medium size tote bag at Donki for bringing back our purchases, as well as luggage covers with Japanese design. Before heading to our rooms for the evening we stop by nearby McDonald's and enjoy a soft serve cone. IMG_5653.JPGIMG_5654.JPGlarge_IMG_5656.JPG

Posted by Helen K. 06:18 Archived in Japan Comments (0)

Day 12 Kappabashi, Ueno, and Omotesando

Shop to Your Heart's Content

sunny 75 °F

We were out the door of Sun Route Hotel at 8:15. We go to Eggslut and Bolange, a combo food joint a block from our hotel. The Gees stand in a line at Eggslut while Mike and I opt for lighter fare and grab a tray and a tong and grab some pastries from Bolange. We grab high seats and sit at long, high counters. The wooden stools were backless, with footrests not made for short people, so they were uncomfortable, but we felt fortunate to have been able to grab seats, otherwise it would have meant stepping outside and eating while standing or sitting on low, concrete steps. Mike and I find open seats next to two couples who are sitting across from each other and are meeting each other for the first time. I can't help but overhear as they carry on a conversation that revolves around their visit to Tokyo. One young man is here to give a talk, He's a foodie and the first thing they did in Tokyo was wait in a line to eat at Nagi's Ramen. I stick that bit of info in my head.
large_IMG_5479.JPGIMG_5478.JPGIMG_5477.JPGIMG_5476.JPG At the Shinjuku train station we bought a 72 hr Tokyo metro pass for 1500 yen to travel within the Tokyo prefecture.IMG_5481.JPG We take a train to Asakusa Station. We walk through a throng of visitors at the Asakusa Shrine, past the multitude of little shops without stopping to browse. Our destination is not the Shrine and the shops, but Kappabashi Street which is known as Kitchen town, a district that has supplied the local restaurant trade for a century. If you love to cook, bake or entertain, you will love visiting Kappabashi where there's a mind boggling amount of food related products.
The giant chef's head on top of the Nimi building tells you that you have arrived at the kitchen district. We are walking on the shady side of the street and the first shop we encounter is across from the large head. It is overflowing with ceramics. The aisles are tight so only one person can browse through an aisle at one time. I am looking for a Japanese made teacup for nephew Kevin and have spotted some potentials ones, but will check other shops before making a purchase. large_IMG_5518.JPG Some storefronts are decorated with larger than life replicas of their product. large_IMG_5503.JPG Although the one with a huge beetle leaves me puzzled. large_IMG_5508.JPG Signs, streetlights and store fronts have little ladies with what appears to be tortoise shells on their back. They appear to be swimming in air. large_IMG_5505.JPGlarge_IMG_5504crop.JPG I think they are tortoise shells because there are other decorations featuring turtles, among them a gold statue of a being that resembles a man frog/turtle and manhole covers with turtles. There a folklore about this impish looking "man turtle" large_IMG_5507.JPGlarge_IMG_5497.JPG Many stores sell realistic fake plastic food which restaurants buy and display to lure diners. large_IMG_5494.JPGlarge_IMG_5493.JPGlarge_IMG_5495.JPG For the next couple of hours Shirley and I go in and out of stores, up and down aisles, up and down stairs. IMG_5515.JPGIMG_5487.JPGIMG_5488.JPGIMG_5490.JPGIMG_5489.JPGIMG_5485.JPGIMG_5492.JPGlarge_IMG_5484.JPGlarge_IMG_5483.JPG Shirley found a small bread loaf pan to replicate the tiny bread we enjoyed at breakfast in Osaka. IMG_5516.JPG At Kamata Knives we head over to the vegetable knives. I love my vegetable knife that Doug found during our trip to Japan last year. We bought it at Y Knives in Kyoto. I want to buy vegetable knives for my kids at Kamata's. A staff member tells us that the most expensive one is superior in strength so we decide to get that one. large_IMG_5500.JPG “Do not use this for cutting bone and do not put this in the dishwasher” he says. We ask to engrave the Chinese character for Fong on two of the knives and the Kanji character for “Vang” on the other. knifes.JPGIMG_4896crop.JPGIMG_4902.JPG"Vang" Character

"Vang" Character

large_IMG_4897.JPGUnlike Y Knives, we only wait fifteen minutes for the chisel engraving which is done by hand. The Gees bought a knife suitable for carving, and a Santoku knife for Tyler. 094e3e70-1332-11ef-bac9-83c37d42611e.JPG large_IMG_5512.JPG We were given a tax refund form and walked three stoplights to the refund counter. large_IMG_5509.JPG IMG_5511.JPGIMG_5510.JPGHeading back the way we came I returned to the first shop we encountered at the beginning and bought two teacups. IMG_7586.JPG Next stop was a hop back on the train going one stop to Ueno for a Hard Rock Tokyo City shirt. large_IMG_5529.JPGlarge_IMG_5528.JPGlarge_IMG_5530.JPGIMG_5520.JPGIMG_5519.JPG It’s 1:00 and I am thirsty and hungry. Lunch is on second floor Restaurant Atre and most of the restaurants have people sitting and waiting to dine. large_IMG_5527.JPG Schmatz does not have a line outside. IMG_5521.JPGIMG_5523.JPGIMG_5526.JPG There’s a lunch special with choice of five entrees. My lasagna choice is sold out and I opt for the same as Mike; pasta of the day, spinach and oysters. Norman orders chicken breast and Shirley orders grilled pork. The salad dressing is very light with a hint of citrus. IMG_7589.JPGI really like Japanese salad dressings. My pasta is tasty with an abundance of oysters. I eat a few oysters and give the rest to Mike. IMG_7592.JPG The bread is simple with a crunchy crust. Our dessert that came with the set was a pound cake instead of ice cream. They must have run out of ice cream. IMG_7594.JPG We usually have to refill our water as they don’t fill your cup up in Japan and their cups are small. I expect it’s so they don’t have to waste their water. We stop in an Ownday optical to see about ordering glasses for myself and Norman. They don’t stock our rx and it will take three days. We’ll go to the optical closer to our hotel to order then. We take a metro train to get more of Cameron’s soy sauce at the location given to us by the store in Osaka. But today is Sunday and they are closed. large_IMG_5532.JPG Well another day then. Fortunately we find that the route is one we can get to at the train entrance adjacent to our hotel. That’s convenient for lugging the bottles of soy sauce back to our room before going somewhere else. We go to the Omotesando district, the fashion, luxury district, one stop from Shibuya. Some of the stores are so popular, shoppers queue up outside to wait to be allowed inside. The Gees get in the line for Polene, a luxury handbag boutique. This store in Japan is only the third Polene boutique in the world large_IMG_7599.JPG Guards are stationed nearby at street corners. Mike and I go across the street and are about to sit on a raised retaining wall to wait for the Gees but are shooed away by a guard. We find a coffee shop, Doutor nearby to sip tea and wait. Shirley is looking for a graduation present for Heather’s graduation from nursing which is approaching in May. The stores in this ritzy area have unique architecture. large_IMG_5539.JPGIMG_7597.JPG After about half an hour we meet up with the Gees. They have two Polene bags. One is for Shirley and the other for Heather. IMG_5536.JPG The next shop was Diptyque, so Shirley could look for a Diptyque Tokyo City Candle. She was very surprised to see a queue in the front of the store and decided that she would go to another less crowded location another day. large_01022350-15a1-11ef-95d5-6b0f1bccbfc3.JPGWe rest a bit at the hotel and head to the close by Lumine 1 to see if Jin’s optical has our rx in stock. My rx would take two weeks. Norm’s is available only in standard lenses. At the east exit of the Shinjuku station, (one of the world's busiest station) is a huge 3D curved outdoor screen. There is a tri-colored cat that look like it's about to pop out of the screen. The 3 dimensional effect looks astonishingly real. large_IMG_5546crop.JPGlarge_IMG_5551.JPG We go to Ownsday nearby. Norman and I order two pairs of glasses apiece. It will be ready in 3 days. IMG_5554.JPGIMG_5555.JPGIMG_5556.JPG We have dinner at a pasta restaurant on the fifth floor of the same Alta building that Ownsday is in.large_IMG_5562.JPG We eat late at 8:30. We had to wave the server over as she helped a few tables who sat down after us. My broccoli, cabbage and bacon with cream sauce was very tasty. Norm’s mushroom and garlic pasta was very garlicky. Mike and Shirley had pasta with meat sauce. Mike finished his pasta and belatedly noticed a table that had hot sauce which he likes in his pasta. IMG_5557.JPGIMG_5558.JPGHeading back to our hotel, we join the throng of people crossing the street near the Shinjuku station. large_9658ab70-155d-11ef-989b-412ef4307681.JPG

Posted by Helen K. 05:31 Archived in Japan Comments (0)

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